Kandy held out against three European empires and only fell in 1815. That history is not abstract here. It is in the layout of the town, the drumming at the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic, and the way the hills close around the lake.
Time your visit for an evening puja at the temple, when the drummers start and the inner chamber opens. If you are here in late July or August, the Esala Perahera is one of the great processions of Asia.
The Royal Botanical Gardens at Peradeniya deserve a slow half day, and the road up from Kandy is where the tea country properly begins.