Sigiriya is the kind of place that rearranges what you thought the ancient world was capable of. In the fifth century, King Kasyapa moved his court to the top of a 200-metre rock and built water gardens, frescoed galleries and a lion-gated staircase to reach it. Fifteen hundred years later, the hydraulics still work when the rains come.
We climb early. The gates open at seven, and the last hour before the heat arrives is the one worth having: the mirror wall, the cloud maidens, then the summit, where the whole of the dry zone opens out below in green and haze.
Most visitors treat Sigiriya as a two-hour stop. We would rather give it a morning, then send you across the plain to Pidurangala for the view back at the rock itself, which is the photograph everyone actually wants.